Lottie Sewalong: Patch Pockets
In today’s post for the Lottie Dress, Top, & Tunic Sewalong, I will show you how to create and sew on your patch pockets! The pocket is entirely optional, and can be added to any of the three views. So feel free to add it or not, as you see fit! You can also use these instructions to add patch pockets to any other project you’re sewing! Okay ready? Here we go!
Create the Pockets
1. Fold the top edge of the pocket 1/4", wrong sides together and press.
2. Flip the pocket over and fold along the fold line, right sides together. Pin it in place on both sides. Do not press this top fold, as later we will be folding it the opposite way.
3. Sew the top fold in place at the 5/8" seam allowance. Continue sewing all the way around the pocket, pivoting at the bottom corners, until you reach the other top edge. Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of this stitch to ensure a strong top corner on your pocket.
4. Turn the top flap right side out and poke out the top corners. If you are using the suggested weight of fabric for the Lottie, there is no need to trim these corners in advance.
5. Press the top fold, making sure to keep the flap a consistent width all the way across. Fold in the sides of the pocket, using the stitching as your guide. The stitching should roll just to the edge of the wrong side. Lastly, fold up the bottom, again using your stitch line as your guide. It's really easy for the bottom corners to stick out, so be careful to keep them inside the pocket shape. A handy tip: Press one side to center, then press the other side to center, instead of pressing all the way across the bottom from right to left, or left to right.
6. I like to flip the whole pocket over at this point, and really press it well to crease the folds.
7. The last step in creating your pocket is to stitch across the lower fold near the top of the pocket. I prefer to stitch this on the right side of the pocket, but since I cannot see the underside while sewing, I need to measure where I want my stitch to be, then mark that on my machine with a piece of washi tape.
8. Once you know where you want the stitch to be, sew along the bottom of the fold at the top of the pocket. You can of course, simply sew it on the wrong side of the pocket, using the bottom of the inside fold as your guide if you prefer.
After stitching, give the pocket another good press, then repeat all the previous steps so you have a matching pair of pockets.
Attach the Pockets
Following the marking guides on the pattern, that you've transferred to your garment front, pin the pockets to the fabric with the wrong side of the pocket down on the right side of the shirt or dress.
To make the reinforced top corners on your pockets even on each side, use a water soluble marking tool and your seam gauge to mark the spot where you will sew and pivot at the top corners. I usually make my triangles 3/8” from the corner.
3. Stitch the pockets to the garment front, following the stitching diagram below. Edge stitch 1/16" from the pocket's edge. It can feel awkward to sew the reinforced corners, but just remember to always have your needle down when making any pivots, and you should be fine! Take your time with this step.
4. Once the pockets are sewn on, give them another good press. I find that the answer to good looking pockets is being pretty heavy handed with my iron. You won't want to warp them out of shape before sewing, but you do want them to be flat and crisp so they go on straight and square.
That’s it for the pockets! Next we get to sewing the shoulders, and then it’s all about the facings and neckline! See you then!