Emery Dress Sewalong: Supplies, Fabric, Pattern, & Notions
Welcome to the first installment of the Emery Dress Sewalong! Before we do anything, we need to gather our supplies! So that’s what we’re going to talk about today. For the Emery, you don’t need anything particularly unusual, but I have made a lot of these dresses and have a few favorite tools to help you sew yours successfully.
THE PATTERN
First things first, you need to get the pattern. We sell it in both print and digital formats, depending on which you prefer. There are pros and cons to each format, but the end result is the same, so whichever one you like best is the way to go. Both will work! If you need to pick it up, you can grab either version in the shop here!
The main advantage to buying the print version is not having to print or assemble it. It arrives ready to go with our carefully chosen papers and design. The main disadvantage of course is that you need to have it shipped it to you, which takes both money and time. Shipping is not cheap, and depending on where you are in the world, can take days or even weeks to arrive.
Therefore, the main advantage to buying the digital version is the instant delivery. You buy it, and the second your purchase is complete, you can download it locally to your computer. Instant! But then the disadvantage of course is you then need to do something to get it from your computer to your sewing table. You can either print the at-home version off your printer and assemble the sheets yourself, or you can pay to have a copy shop print it for you. Oftentimes this is cheaper than paying for shipping the hard copy, so that is the fun math game you need to play, depending on where you are located.
Either way, you will get the full pattern, with all of our instructions, so either method you choose, you will get everything you need. If you pick the digital version and plan to print and assemble it yourself, don’t forget to get a fresh roll of tape!
Also, if you need help assembling your digital pattern, I have a post all about this very topic that you can find here.
FABRIC, LINING, + INTERFACING
The official blurb on the pattern for which fabrics to use says the following: lightweight & medium weight wovens, such as linen, lawn, shirting, & quilt weight. Essentially, you want to stick to a woven fabric that isn’t too light or too heavy. The gathers on the front of the dress do not like too much bulk, so if you’re unsure if the fabric you want to use is too thick, bunch it up as if it was gathered and see how it feels. And obviously what’s too thick for one person might be ideal for someone else! So this is somewhat subjective.
Pictured above is the linen I used for the samples that Julie and Pearl are modeling in all of the Emery Dress photos. Lightweight and medium weight linen is an ideal choice for this pattern because it flows and is drapey, but also provides structure and holds a crisp press on hems and darts. These were purchased at Purl Soho and are available on their website if you don’t live near the shop. I used their Handkerchief Linen, but the Watercolor Linen and Daily Linen would also work great. The Warsa Linen is too thick.
I will be using the Lizzy House designed fabric pictured above for the sample for the sewalong, which I picked so you can see a clear right and wrong side to the fabric, which I think helps when showing steps. This is a cotton that is slightly heavier than quilt weight, but not by much. The topic of using quilt weight for garments is relatively controversial, but the truth is that it’s a great choice for beginners and it’s easy to come by. Some patterns do suffer a little by being sewn with quilt weight, but the Emery Dress isn’t really one of them. The bodice is just fine sewn up in quilt weight, and the gathered skirt will only be a little bit stiffer, which isn’t necessarily a negative! Again, this is subjective, as everyone likes to wear their garments differently.
It is super important to note that the yardage listed in the pattern assumes non-directional fabric. This is especially important if you plan to use quilt weight, as a lot of quilt weight prints are directional. So if you pick something that has a one-way print, be sure to get extra so you can reconfigure the layout accordingly.
Other great fabric options are linen and rayon fabrics and blends. Pictured above on the left is the Brussels Washer Blend from Robert Kaufman that I picked up at Imagine Gnats, which is a linen and rayon blend, and is a favorite of mine and of most garment sewers I know. It has all the sturdiness of linen with all the drape of rayon. It’s dreamy! The middle fabric is a linen and silk blend that I have had in my stash for a while, and like the Brussels Washer, it has both structure and drape. Lastly on the right is a rayon I bought ages ago at Atelier Brunette, which will give your Emery Dress much more flow and drape. This isn’t the best choice for a beginner, but if you’re more skilled and want to try it in rayon, it’s a great choice. Also, Atelier Brunette has some of the most lovely rayons on the market, so if you’re thinking of using rayon, be sure to check out what they have because it’s all really lovely.
For the sake of clarity in the photos, I am choosing to use a different fabric for the lining, but you might also want to pick a different fabric as well. I love Bemberg Rayon for linings, because it is slippery but breathable, and cool to the touch. Silk is much warmer, so if you are after warmth, that can be a great choice. Note that the yardage listed in the pattern includes self-lining, so if you just want to use the same fabric as the outer, no need to calculate anything. But if you choose to use something different, you can use less of the main fabric. Since the yardage will depend on the size you are making, and whether your fabric has a directional print or not, be sure to lay out your pieces to make sure you have enough.
Lastly, if you are choosing to include the optional bow at the center front, you will also need a little interfacing. I pretty much always use Pellon SF101 fusible, unless I am making something significantly lighter or heavier. This interfacing is great because it’s actual cotton with glue on the back, and not the poly composite that you see in craft projects, which can disintegrate with washing and wearing.
I also always interface the seam where I insert zippers, so even if you are not making the bow, you might want to use some in that spot as well.
NOTIONS
For the Emery Dress, the only notions you need are a zipper and thread. Easy! I wrote the pattern for an invisible zipper, and that is what I will be showing you how to do in the sewalong, but I know many of you prefer a lapped zipper or a centered zipper, so if you choose to go rogue, you’ll need a zipper to match the method you are going to use.
If invisible zippers are new to you, here’s what you’re looking for: as pictured above, the “right” side of the zipper has a flat front with a seam and the pull at the top, and the “wrong” side of the zipper, or the underside, has the teeth. Unlike a regular zipper, which has the pull and the teeth both on the “right” side, an invisible zipper has the pull on the “right” and the teeth on the “wrong”. You will need a 22” invisible zipper for the Emery Dress, in a color that matches your fabric. If in question as to which color, always go slightly darker, as dark colors recede and light colors come to the foreground. You want this so sink into the seam like a shadow, so slightly darker is always better.
For thread, your only other notion, I almost always use Guttermann 100% polyester thread. It’s strong, comes in 100’s of colors, and personally I find it holds up better than cotton thread. I also like the Mettler thread, so if that’s a brand that’s accessible to you, it’s also great. Mostly I suggest avoiding blends, which often have a “core” of one fiber and an “outer” of another. Also, don’t use that cute old spool of thread that was in your grandma’s sewing bin. Thread is literally holding everything together, so this isn’t a moment to cut corners! If you can easily break it by pulling on it with your hands, it’s not going to hold up when sewn into your dress and worn.
For selecting a color, the same principal goes with the thread that is true for your zipper: slightly darker will recede and become more invisible than slightly lighter. When picking thread at the store, I always unspool a bit of the thread and lay it on top of my fabric to see how it looks. The color will change when it is a single thread versus the density of the color on an entire spool, so just laying the whole spool on your fabric isn’t as accurate. The one that is the least visible to the eye is the best match! But like everything in sewing, this is 100% a personal choice, and maybe you want a contrasting thread! So you do whatever suits your tastes.
SUPPLIES
Lastly, we need a bunch of supplies and tools. Most of these are likely things you already have, but they are all from my studio and things I use in my personal sewing, so maybe you’ll learn about a tool you didn’t know about already!
The first thing you will need to do is measure your body, so let’s start with measuring tools. To take your measurements, you will want a flexible tape measure, preferably one made from fiberglass. Since plastic, paper, and fabric tape measures will stretch or shrink with time and age, but fiberglass will not, this is the best tape measure to get. If you are in question if yours is still okay, lay it up against a ruler and check!
You will also want a long ruler for putting your pattern pieces on grain, and a seam gauge for making all your smaller measurements, like hemming. I also use a smaller ruler, like the one in the middle, for marking darts and in places where the long ruler just feels way too big.
After measuring your body and selecting a size, you might want to trace off your pattern. I have learned that while this is an extra step, it is always worth it to take the time to do this. You will thank yourself later! I use this Swedish Tracing Paper, and use a fine point mechanical pencil to ensure thin, clean lines. You can trace off using a lot of different things, but I really love the Swedish Tracing Paper because it is soft like fabric, but takes a mark like paper. It really doesn’t like to be erased though, so make sure you are cool with where you make your marks, because erasing them isn’t really an option. Carefully trace all the pieces, notches, grainline markings etc.
After you trace off your pattern, remember to label every single piece with what piece it is, what size is cut out, and what the pattern is. I have found so many unmarked pieces in my pile, unsure of what it is, or what size I cut. Save yourself the headache and label everything properly with any details you want future you to know about this pattern piece!
To trace off your pattern and to cut everything out, you will want either pattern weights or pins. You will also need pins later for sewing, and I highly recommend getting pins with glass heads on the end, so you can pin and press with ease. Plastic head pins will melt under the heat of the iron and get all over your iron and your project. No good!
To cut out your pattern and fabric, you can either use scissors or a rotary cutter. If using a rotary cutter, be sure to use a self-healing mat (pictured in all of these photos) under your fabric. This not only protects your table, but also lengthens the life of the blade, which aren’t cheap. I also swear by my small 5” Gingher scissors for all the trimming, notching, grading and basically everything I need to cut during the sewing process. When I bought them ages ago, they felt like a big splurge, but they are absolutely worth every penny and I cannot recommend them more!
On the Emery Dress, you will need to mark many darts on the bodice, and a few other spots too, like the corners on the bow, and spots around the pockets too. I always use these two types of marking tools: the Clover Water Soluble Pencils, or the Mark B Gone Water Soluble Pen. I don’t like to use anything that isn’t water soluble, because I’ve been burned plenty in the past, and want to know without a doubt, that the marks are going to go away. If you are unsure, always test on a scrap of your fabric to make sure the marks will go away with water, or they will be on your dress forever.
And lastly, you will need a couple of other tools for sewing your Emery Dress successfully. First, you’ll need needles for your machine. I like the Schmetz Mictotex needles the best, as they’re made for woven fabrics, unlike the universal needles, that are made for “anything”. I’d rather pick something that I know will work great on the fabric I’m using, instead of getting a needle that will work on everything. For quilt weight and similar fabrics, I recommend using an 80/12, and for lighter fabrics, I recommend using an 70/10.
You will need both an invisible zipper foot and a regular zipper foot that fit your machine to put the invisible zipper in properly. And of course, every project requires a seam ripper in case of mistake! But you will also want one for pulling out baste stitches.
Not pictured, you will also need a hand sewing needle for securing the lining and for the hem; an iron, ironing board, and pressing ham; as well as a point turner for pushing out corners.
It’s likely that you already own most, if not all, of these tools! If you have any questions about anything above, please leave a comment and I will be happy to help! Have fun gathering your supplies, and I will see you here for the next installment!